Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Written By Chris Shirley MA FRGS

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Cost ★★★★☆

Performance ★★★★★

Overall Score ★★★★☆

Verdict: A highly versatile and durable belay and abseil device designed to provide climbers with enhanced braking power and control.

The Black Diamond ATC-XP builds upon the design of the standard Black Diamond ATC, offering additional features that improve both safety and usability.

One of its key advantages is the inclusion of dual friction modes, which allow climbers to adjust the level of stopping power depending on the situation. The high-friction mode provides up to three times the braking force of a regular ATC, making it particularly useful when handling heavier loads, catching falls, or when additional control is needed, such as in icy or wet conditions.

This makes it a great choice for beginners who may benefit from the extra stopping assistance, as well as for experienced climbers tackling demanding routes.

The device is compatible with a wide range of rope diameters, accommodating sizes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm, which means it can be used for both single-pitch sport climbing and multi-pitch trad climbing.

This versatility allows climbers to switch between different rope setups without needing multiple devices. Constructed from machined aluminium, the ATC-XP is both lightweight and durable, ensuring long-lasting performance even with regular use. Its carefully designed shape ensures smooth rope feeding, reducing the likelihood of snags or uneven friction, while also allowing for controlled lowering and abseiling

Another benefit of the ATC-XP is its symmetrical design, which enables efficient handling whether belaying from below or at an anchor. This makes it particularly useful for multipitch climbs, where a climber may need to belay both a lead climber and a second.

The device remains simple to operate, making it accessible for climbers of all levels while still offering the precision and control that advanced users require. Whether used in a climbing gym, on a sport route, or in alpine conditions, the Black Diamond ATC-XP delivers a reliable and effective belay experience. Its combination of enhanced braking capability, broad rope compatibility, and durable construction makes it a popular choice among climbers looking for a high-performance belay device that balances safety, control, and ease of use.

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Chris Shirley MA FRGS

About the Author:

Chris is the founder of Hiatus.Design, a mission-driven branding and website design company that works with clients all over the world.

Over the course of his life, he has travelled to more than 60 countries across six continents, earned two Guinness World Records, completed the legendary Marathon des Sables, summited Mont Blanc and unclimbed peaks in Asia, become a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society (FRGS), rowed across the Atlantic Ocean and obtained a Masterʼs degree in Business Management (MA).

https://www.hiatus.design
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