~ Field Notes ~

Hunting for the hidden ‘Green Bothy’ in Kielder Forest
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Hunting for the hidden ‘Green Bothy’ in Kielder Forest

Wanting to explore more mountain bothies in the UK as somewhere interesting to camp for future expeditions, I decided I should find the ‘Green bothy’ that’s located in the Northumberland national park.

Taking the train to Haltwhistle, the route would be almost 24 kilometres (so a little more than a half marathon) from the station to the bothy, via Hadrian’s wall and winding firetracks through Kielder Forest.

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Discovering the Sphinx and Great Pyramids in Egypt's burning sands
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Discovering the Sphinx and Great Pyramids in Egypt's burning sands

In September 2007, I was lucky to explore Egypt for 7 days, and see the one of the 7 wonders of the world, the great pyramids and the Sphinx!

Staying in Hurghada, a resort town located on the Red Sea coast that’s known for its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and vibrant coral reefs, it’s a nice break after a busy 7 months in Osnabruck where I was based with 115 Provost Company, Royal Military Police.

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Honouring our Heroes: A Journey to the Commando Memorial, Spean Bridge
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Honouring our Heroes: A Journey to the Commando Memorial, Spean Bridge

In Autumn 2018, whilst on a trip to traverse the nearby Aonach Eagach ridgeline, I made a special journey to the Commando Memorial, situated at Spean Bridge in the Scottish Highlands – a really poignant tribute to the elite Commando forces of World War II and beyond.

Erected in 1952, the memorial overlooks the stunning landscape of the Nevis mountain Range and serves as a lasting memorial to the Commandos who trained in the rugged terrain of the nearby Lochaber region.

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A bothy night straight from ‘The Blair Witch Project’!
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

A bothy night straight from ‘The Blair Witch Project’!

Wanting to spend more time exploring Britain’s fine range of abandoned houses (aka ‘bothies’) along the Pennine way to serve as potential rest stops, saw me trek to the Haughton Green bothy building, located near the now infamous remains of the Sycamore gap tree.

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Finding ‘Greg’s Hut’, the highest bothy in England
Hiking, Pennines, Pennine way, Camping, Bothy Chris Shirley MA FRGS Hiking, Pennines, Pennine way, Camping, Bothy Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Finding ‘Greg’s Hut’, the highest bothy in England

Another Friday night in Spring 2024 was spent sleeping in another abandoned house in a remote place - this time, the highest mountain bothy in England on the Pennine way.

After a few days spent surveying the mountain bothies website after the last ‘bothy-bagging’ session with Stef and Justin, I realised that Greg’s hut (to clarify, it’s nothing to do with the bakery) is just a few bus rides and a 20-kilometre yomp away - so why not go and see and try it for myself.

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A night spent ‘Bothy-bagging’ in North Wales
Chris Shirley MA FRGS Chris Shirley MA FRGS

A night spent ‘Bothy-bagging’ in North Wales

These days, Friday nights are best spent sleeping in remote Welsh mountain bothies!

Despite many years of outdoor adventures, a Friday night in April 2024 was my first time sleeping in one of these many free camping huts dotted around the UK.

Driving to Snowdonia national park in North Wales, our group of 3, good mate, Justin Oliver Davis, an adaptive athlete aiming for some big adventures (who I’ve interviewed on our podcast a few years ago), and Stefan Hoole, another great mate made when we both flew to the Caribbean to respond to Hurricane Irma in 2018, found this little hut at lake Arenig Fawr to yomp to and camp at.

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Seeing Mexico city as a solo traveller
americas, mexico, overseas Chris Shirley MA FRGS americas, mexico, overseas Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Seeing Mexico city as a solo traveller

I fly from London to Mexico City international airport (that’s generally referred to as Benito Juárez International Airport) and take an Uber from the airport to my apartment in the Roma Sur district.

Being a visual designer, the first thing that stands out on the taxi ride to my apartment, is how much and the quality of the street art and how vibrant it is! The ride is utterly eye opening as I’ve never seen this combination of culture and art outside of East London – and I love it, it’s like travelling through an open-air art museum.

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Exploring the UNESCO-listed Tomb of Kings in Paphos, Cyprus

Exploring the UNESCO-listed Tomb of Kings in Paphos, Cyprus

The Tombs of the Kings is an incredible archaeological site near Paphos, Cyprus – that you might not have heard of.

Needing to travel back to London for meetings and to get planning for the first live Tales of Adventure events underway, I decided to come via Cyprus to get some brief respite from Estonia’s -20 winter and explore more of the island that I’d last visited some 12 years prior with 40 Commando Royal Marines during a summer of instability in the region.

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Visiting Beirut, Lebanon as a solo traveller

Visiting Beirut, Lebanon as a solo traveller

In June 2018, I got the opportunity to travel to Beirut’s capital city, Lebanon for a few days to understand more about this beautiful, yet undiscovered place.

I fly into the Rafic Hariri International Airport and am excited at the opportunity to see a country that I’ve never visited before yet heard so much about when growing up.

Beirut is located on the eastern Mediterranean coast and is known for its vibrant atmosphere, diverse population, and cosmopolitan lifestyle, which I could really feel as I walked around the streets – I didn’t feel like I was in a post-conflict zone with such an abundance of shopping malls and beautiful mosques.

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Completing the ‘Tryfan horseshoe’ in Snowdonia, North Wales

Completing the ‘Tryfan horseshoe’ in Snowdonia, North Wales

In May 2018, the same weekend Prince Harry married Meghan Markle, I decided to enter the Snowdon half marathon and tick the ‘Tryfan Horseshoe’ off my adventure bucketlist.

If you’ve not heard of it, the Tryfan Horseshoe is a classic mountain walking route in Snowdonia National Park, North Wales, named after Tryfan, a famous mountain in the area. The horseshoe is a circular route of around 8 Km, with around 1000 metres of ascent that takes in several other mountains as well, including Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr, and Y Garn.

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Competing in my first Ironman triathlon

Competing in my first Ironman triathlon

In 2009, I entered my first Ironman triathlon, as a way to test myself ahead of entering 15-and-a-half months of Royal Marines officer training. I figured I wanted to know that I was capable of long distances and perseverance under strain, and so what better to build those qualities than a very long multidisciplinary race!

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Attending a Buckingham Palace garden party with the Not Forgotten association

Attending a Buckingham Palace garden party with the Not Forgotten association

In summer 2015, I was delighted to join the Not Forgotten Association for their annual summer garden party at Buckingham Palace in central London.

If you’ve not heard of them, the Not Forgotten Association is a prominent British veterans charity founded in 1920, to provide support and assistance to military personnel and veterans who have sustained injuries or disabilities due to their service. Over the decades, the organisation has played a crucial role in enhancing the well-being and quality of life for veterans in the United Kingdom.

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Landfall: My experiences of responding to Hurricane Irma in the Caribbean with Team Rubicon

Landfall: My experiences of responding to Hurricane Irma in the Caribbean with Team Rubicon

In September 2017 and only just back from 2 weeks volunteering in the Philippines with Team Rubicon, I flew out to the Caribbean at short notice to respond to the aftermath of Hurricane Irma, a catastrophic Category 5 hurricane that struck the Caribbean and south-eastern United States.

It was one of the strongest Atlantic hurricanes ever recorded, with sustained winds of up to 185 mph (295 km/h) that caused widespread damage and devastation. This is what I saw and experienced:

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The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

Entering an 800-kilometre bikepacking race isn’t something I think will come easily. It’s hard to explain why I have a feeling reminiscent of the final exercise of commando officer training - like you know you’re in for some tough times, yet excited to put yourself into furnace and get blasted to see what you’re made of.

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Renovating schools, running pop-up dental clinics, and developing disaster response agencies in the Philippines

Renovating schools, running pop-up dental clinics, and developing disaster response agencies in the Philippines

In August 2017, I travelled a remote part of the Philippines to volunteer for 2 weeks working on a number of projects with other UK charity partners whilst I searched for my passion.

We, the ‘greyshirts’ of Team Rubicon UK went to Cebu city to help renovate a classroom at the same school that Dentaid would be running a free walk-in clinic to students who wouldn’t ordinarily have access to a dentist, we’d also nearby to emergency response charity, Serve On, so that we can augment and support both of the charities when they needed it.

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STOLEN MOUNTAIN BIKE: Trek Marlin 7 - size XL (Navy blue, frame number WTU089L440T)

STOLEN MOUNTAIN BIKE: Trek Marlin 7 - size XL (Navy blue, frame number WTU089L440T)

A few days out from hitting the big 40 marker (this one definitely crept up on me), but sadly it’s overshadowed by the theft of my beloved Trek Marlin 7 mountain bike - my daily companion over the last 8 month of exploring Estonia’s epic nature, and getting me ready for my first bikepacking race, the Pane Pane Pane Kōkōva 800 in just 4 week’s time.

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Solo travel to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Solo travel to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

In September 2018, I travelled to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, as a solo traveller to help make an an NGO more resilient and reduce travel risk for staff.

I find a city steeped in history, the earliest forms of nomadism, and adventure and learn about its transformation from a Silk Road trading centre to a bustling metropolis, where black and white stones symbolise struggle and unity, UNESCO stories of legends are immortalised in giant statues, and breath taking cultural landscapes!

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Exploring beautiful Yangon, Myanmar, as a solo traveller

Exploring beautiful Yangon, Myanmar, as a solo traveller

What unexpected encounters and eye-opening experiences did I have in the vibrant city of Yangon, Myanmar? From the awe-inspiring 99-metre Shwedagon Pagoda, believed to enshrine sacred relics, to an impromptu cultural exchange with locals at a skateboard park, my journey was filled with moments that challenged assumptions and left a lasting impact on me. But what other hidden gems and transformative encounters lie undiscovered in this city, waiting to be explored?

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Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

My recent bikepacking expedition took me to a remote Estonian forest in search of an underground 'Forest Brothers' bunker, blending my love for adventure and resilience. The Forest Brothers, a resistance movement during and after World War II, embodied an inspiring spirit of resistance that resonates deeply with me. Cycling through the captivating forest, guided by clear signs and Google Maps, I felt like I was living out scenes from an Indiana Jones movie or a video game. Discovering the subtle yet poignant bunker, with its wooden seats and firepit, transported me to a time of hardship and bravery.

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Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Sensing I needed a work break, I organised my first bikepacking trip of the year in Estonia's Jurassic Park (aka the Aidu quarry). With my fully loaded Trek Marlin mountain bike, I explored rugged landscapes, deep craters, and dramatic canals. The quarry site offers some incredible views, perfect for a refreshing 24-hour screen break. A remote escape that left an unforgettable impression on me!

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