~ Field Notes ~
Sports and exercises for good mental health
As millennials that grew up in the internet age, we’ve faced challenges that our parents and previous generations haven’t had to deal with. This requires a different outlook to those in the past, simply ‘getting on with it’ is no longer good enough.
We’re the most globally-connected generation and therefore, more exposed to what’s going on in the world – which includes the bad parts. To stop ourselves being overcome with anxiety and panic, it’s important to maintain a healthy balance of work and ‘play’ – that doesn’t focus on drinking alcohol or spending vast amounts of money.
Motorbikepacking expedition 2: Riding to Nova beach from Tallinn
My second trip this year, is to visit a public camping site on Estonia’s northern coast that I’ve found thanks to the super useful forest management agency, Riigimets’ (RMK) online map of all hiking routes, camp spots, and nature places.
I load my Yamaha Tenere up with my winter expeditions tent, some food, water, a sleeping bag, and other essential items for what I’ve started referring to as ‘motorbikepacking’ trips. As you’ve probably already guessed, Motorbikepacking trips are essentially the same regular bikepacking trips, albeit with a motorbike instead of a pedal bike. The main advantage is you can explore places that are further away, yet still a moderately low cost.
Exploring ghostly old military tunnels in Tallinn….at night… with lanterns!
I discovered the hidden history of Tallinn's subdistrict of Astangu with a lantern hike through old Soviet military tunnels. Exploring the area once used as a military base during World War I and witnessing the remnants of abandoned U-shaped ammunition storage tunnels hand-carved from the limestone cliffs. Led by a knowledgeable guide, traversing slippery slopes, and unstable terrain for two hours with a helpful headtorch to navigate the rocky sections. This affordable and unique experience costs €20 per person and provides a fascinating insight into a district rich in intrigue and adventure!
Crawling around inside a 90-year-old submarine called ‘Lembit’ at the Seaplanes maritime museum, Tallinn
If you're interested in maritime history, a visit to the Seaplane Harbour Maritime Museum in Tallinn, Estonia is a must. See historic seaplanes and submarines from World War II, as well as other historic ships and boats, including the icebreaker Suur Tõll. Interactive exhibits and animations add to the experience, making it a fascinating and sobering place to explore for all travel enthusiasts. Don't miss out on learning about Estonia's rich maritime heritage.
A hike through the Viru bogs
As a former Royal Marines officer, I have had my fair share of unpleasant experiences with bogs. However, when my partner suggested we try bog hiking in Estonia, I was initially hesitant. Nevertheless, the Viru bog hike in Lahemaa National Park turned out to be an enjoyable and serene experience. The trail is well-maintained, and we were able to observe a variety of wildlife along the way. The observation tower offers breathtaking views, and the peaceful atmosphere was a welcome break from the bustling city life.
Bikepacking the Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia
The Eurovelo cycling routes are one of Europe’s best kept secrets. Waymarked by blue signs with occasional directions to the next town, the routes criss-cross European countries.
The entire Eurovelo 11 route is c.6500 kilometres, starts at Nordkapp (the most northerly point in Europe) and finishes at the southern tip of Greece, covering 11 countries on the route. It’s apparently referred to as ‘the Beast of the East’ (according to the official website) and completing it in stages is quickly becoming a personal goal.
A short hike in the Hindu Kush: scaling mountains in Kabul, Afghanistan.
We meet in a quiet corner of Kabul, a neighbourhood that’s largely untouched by the security issues. I know the city moderately well and so this eases my apprehension well. Although I do understand that If I’ve misjudged anything about my plan to get alternative perspectives of the beautiful mountains, the consequences could be severe.
It’s winter and the whole city is covered in a blanket of snow, meaning that movement is much slower, but the city does appear quieter than when I was last here.
Bikepacking trip 4: a one-day trip back to Tallinn from Jogeva
So, I've been itching to take my gravel bike out for a spin after some major upgrades. I'm planning to ride the entire Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia, but first, I needed to test my new setup. That's why I decided to go on a one-day bikepacking trip from Jogeva to Tallinn.
I added a couple of things to my ride, including a pair of aero bars from Decathlon to give me more hand positions, and Topeak Versacage gear platforms on each fork to carry my essentials. Plus, I moved my waterproof jacket to a top tube pouch for easy access and left behind the inner flysheet to save weight and space.
Bikepacking expedition 3: first multi-day test ride for the Eurovelo 11 attempt
My third bikepacking trip is a test ride for a big multi-day trip I want to do later in summer that would see me riding all the way across Estonia following the Eurovelo 11 cycling route towards the end of summer when the weather has got a little cooler. It would be 500 kilometres (c.300 miles) so I will need to be used to spending multiple days out on the road.
Seeing the Ironman Tallinn in action!
I was lucky to witness Ironman Tallinn, Estonia's capital city earlier this year. The race course crisscrossed the city and even included the picturesque old town, attracting huge crowds of participants and volunteers. Having completed the UK's Ironman in Bolton, I was impressed by how picturesque the cycling and running routes were epic, going through the heart of the city, even on the cobbled streets. The finish line was at the Seaplanes maritime museum, next to the gigantic Lembit submarine – the coolest ending ever!
Bikepacking expedition number 2: exploring an underwater prison building!
My second bikepacking expedition to prepare me for the Silk Road Mountain race comes quite possibly as a result of playing too much Tomb Raider as a teenager when I hear about a sunken prison building in the middle of a lake that’s around 40 kilometres away from Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn that I’m exploring as a digital nomad.
Exploring the military history of Aegna island, Estonia
In July 2022, I took a ferry to the little-known island of Aegna, located close to Tallinn, Estonia. At just 3 km², it’s a small island, however Aegna is unique are its well preserved former military sites, including artillery, coastal defensive positions, and fortification from different periods. Walking around these old military sites really felt like taking a step back in history and an unforgettable experience.
My first bikepacking expedition - Riding to Keila waterfalls near Tallinn, Estonia
In my quest to train for the Silk Road Mountain Race, I decided to squeeze in an 80-kilometre, 2-day mini bikepacking expedition during the week to test out my bike’s setup, find gaps in my preparation, build conditioning and more fitness, experience Estonia’s summer temperatures, and see what kit I might need for bigger bikepacking trips (like tackling the 500-kilometre Eurovelo 11 route that I want to do later this year).
Taking the scenic route: my 1000-mile motorbike adventure from England to Estonia.
In summer 2022, I rode my Yamaha Ténéré motorbike over a thousand miles from my home in the UK across Europe to Estonia – one of my longest motorbike trips ever.
The endeavour was tiring, navigationally complex (for someone who’s only ever ridden a motorbike in the UK and US), yet bags of fun. I took a ferry to the Netherlands, rode to northern Germany (stopping at an old Army base I was posted to in 2007), took another ferry to Lithuania; and finally rode to Estonia’s capital city of Tallinn, via Lithuania and Latvia.
How can we make adventure more sustainable?
I understand the benefits of adventure, increased social mobility by widening your social circle and professional network, education, life skills, increased resilience – the list goes on. However, how can we access these huge opportunities knowing that we’re contributing to an unsustainable way of living.
Attempting the special forces, ‘Fan Dance’, with adaptive athlete, Justin Oliver Davis
I was lucky to hang out with adaptive mountaineer, Justin Oliver Davis, on his ten-year ‘bang-iversary’ (the day he was blown up whilst on overseas operations), to be part of his hugely impressive attempt to finish the ‘Fan Dance’, one of the hallmark fitness test for entry into the British Special Forces.
Recovering from a big injury: how you can help someone move forward in a better way
Being independent and active is a large part of my identity and purpose.
Of all the injuries, the most complicated has been the compound fracture to my leg. Initially I had a couple of surgeries and rod inserted into it, pinning the shattered part together. This stabilised the leg, and after a month, I was starting to get back on my feet with the aid of a wheelchair. Being able to get out of bed was a real game changer: It meant I could go to the toilet, move around and not have to constantly rely on help from others. It meant being able to wash and brush my teeth instead of having a flannel bath in bed.
Traversing the nadir: 2 years on from catastrophic injury
Ever since I almost died on the Matterhorn two years ago, my approach to physical risk has changed.
As a young man, I had an entirely different risk appetite to what I do now. High risk adventure sports – like mountaineering, climbing, racing mountain bikes down hills, skydiving and riding motorbikes were a regular part of my life before a big fall that also finished me.
Now, my appetite to take the same risks has been sated, but for how long – I don’t know for certain. I still dream of big mountains and that feeling of elation when you’re stood on a summit after months of planning and the hours spent plodding uphill.
How slow adventures can be good for your career and mental health.
When you’re so intensely focussed on your career or family, your attention to where you are in life can go unchecked. For some people, this lack of checking-in with yourself can last years or even decades. For others, they check in too often and it stops progression forward and upwards. I think this ‘analysis paralysis’ can be a cause of unhappiness for some.
Taking a sabbatical to row across an ocean, cycle across a country (or continent), or run across a desert, might seem like unhelpful to some, but I think it can be useful in ways we don’t really consider.
1 year on from a complete life reset
I’m lucky for many reasons: Not just because I’m surrounded by people who put their own lives on hold to limit the impact of my near-fatal fall, but also how things turned out for me since my life almost came to an abrupt end some 12 months ago.