My second bikepacking expedition to prepare me for the Silk Road Mountain race comes quite possibly as a result of playing too much Tomb Raider as a teenager when I hear about a sunken prison building in the middle of a lake that’s around 40 kilometres away from Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn that I’m exploring as a digital nomad.

The idea of swimming around submerged buildings means that I pack a set of goggles and snorkel to better indulge my strange fascination with underwater things that probably shouldn’t be there (maybe a hangover from the Marines or going to university in a seaside city)

 

With the gravel bike loaded up with food, water, and freediving kit, I cycle to this quarry that’s a few hours from Tallinn and find the most incredible adventure hub.

 

I set off on a warm day with some music playing in my wireless headphones (such a good invention for bikepacking to free me from the phone), I take the ride at a leisurely pace and enjoy being away from my laptop, meaning I can focus on long-term goals and aspirations for a while.

 

After 35ish kilometres, I take a detour to see an interesting graveyard that appears when I’m searching for the entrance to the quarry. The Ämari Pilots’ Cemetery is from Estonia’s soviet period and a memorial to pilots who sadly died in the area, yet instead of headstones, their memories are marked with tailfins from planes that would’ve been in service when they sadly passed away. It’s a sobering sight given everything that’s going on in the world in 2022.

 

I arrive at the quarry and find somewhere to set my tent up around 10pm (after a failed attempt when I forget to check the pegs will go in the ground – some early reminders for camping) however it’s still light so not a huge problem to move it.

 

 

Exploring the sunken prison

 

I wake the next day excited for freediving around the sunken prison. It’s an eerie experience swimming around this ghostly building, and my rampant imagination puts ideas that a dead body will float out from behind a wall (which, of course, it doesn’t!).

 

After the freediving, I hike up the hills to see the incredible sight from up high. It’s a magnificent lake, and somewhere I’m excited to come back and explore again sometime, maybe bringing some UK friends or family to see it and try some snorkelling around it.

 

After a few hours, I have to set off to cycle back to Tallinn. It’s been great to take a few days off to explore the country, but I do also have work to do and so must get back to focus on the vocation that allows me to be here in the first place. I think about the idea of short bikepacking trips all the way home and start making a list of places to visit on the gravel bike before winter is upon us.


Chris Shirley MA FRGS

About the Author: Chris is the founder of Hiatus.Design, a website design and branding studio that works with brands all over the world, a former Royal Marines officer and former risk advisor to the BBC.

Chris has travelled in over 60 countries, is a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society (FRGS), a Guinness World Record holder for rowing over 3500 miles across the Atlantic Ocean, a Marathon des Sables finisher, and has worked with Hollywood actors, world–renowned musical artists and TV personalities!

https://www.hiatus.design
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Seeing the Ironman Tallinn in action!

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Exploring the military history of Aegna island, Estonia