Exploring abandoned soviet missile bases in remote Estonia
Having grown up in the late eighties and early nineties, I had a strange curiosity in exploring the remnants of Estonia's Cold War history, and both the Rohu and Kadila missile bases offer intriguing insights into the country's military past.
Located some 25 kilometres from Rakvere, the Rohu rocket base was once a vital part of the Soviet nuclear rocket complex established during the 1960s, but now lies largely in ruins. Interestingly located near a recreated Forest Brother’s bunker, I found it fascinating that anyone can walk around the remnants of rocket hangars, service facilities, and launch pads where the feared R-12 was once housed.
From the information I could find online, its operational years were between 1960 and 1970, where the Rohu rocket base was a hub for the 304th Rocket Regiment of the Soviet Union Guards.
Situated amidst the forests of Rohu-Lebavere, the base housed divisions responsible for servicing the R-12 missiles, capable of carrying nuclear warheads up to 2,000 kilometres (which would put most of Europe and the UK within striking range). The base was heavily fortified, surrounded by double-barbed wire fences equipped with high-voltage currents and monitored by machine gun emplacements.
Touring around the site, it was clear to see the base was divided into different zones, each serving specific functions. Research suggests the first zone housed administrative and operational facilities, while the second zone accommodated soldiers' quarters and support services. The most critical area was the combat zone, featuring specialised facilities for rocket storage, assembly, and launch.
Despite their current state of disrepair, the bases serve as important historical landmarks, shedding light on Estonia's complex legacy. Cycling around the remnants of these once-secret installations, helped me to contemplate the impact of geopolitical tensions and the enduring legacy of military technology on the landscape of modern Estonia.
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About the Author: A former Royal Marines officer and advisor to the BBC, Chris has travelled in over 60 countries, is a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, a Guinness World Record holder for rowing over 3500 miles across the Atlantic Ocean, a Marathon des Sables finisher, and is the founder of ‘Haus of Hiatus’, a website design and branding studio that designs and amplifies start-ups, scale-ups and special projects around the world.
He has worked with Hollywood actors, world–renowned musical artists and TV personalities, and is delighted to have had his work featured by the United Nations, Red Bull, BBC, and even seen at the South Pole!