~ Field Notes ~

Exploring the UNESCO-listed Tomb of Kings in Paphos, Cyprus

Exploring the UNESCO-listed Tomb of Kings in Paphos, Cyprus

The Tombs of the Kings is an incredible archaeological site near Paphos, Cyprus – that you might not have heard of.

Needing to travel back to London for meetings and to get planning for the first live Tales of Adventure events underway, I decided to come via Cyprus to get some brief respite from Estonia’s -20 winter and explore more of the island that I’d last visited some 12 years prior with 40 Commando Royal Marines during a summer of instability in the region.

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The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

The Kõkõva bikepacking race, 800 kilometres across Estonia

Entering an 800-kilometre bikepacking race isn’t something I think will come easily. It’s hard to explain why I have a feeling reminiscent of the final exercise of commando officer training - like you know you’re in for some tough times, yet excited to put yourself into furnace and get blasted to see what you’re made of.

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Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

Finding the Spirit of Resistance in a remote Estonian forest

My recent bikepacking expedition took me to a remote Estonian forest in search of an underground 'Forest Brothers' bunker, blending my love for adventure and resilience. The Forest Brothers, a resistance movement during and after World War II, embodied an inspiring spirit of resistance that resonates deeply with me. Cycling through the captivating forest, guided by clear signs and Google Maps, I felt like I was living out scenes from an Indiana Jones movie or a video game. Discovering the subtle yet poignant bunker, with its wooden seats and firepit, transported me to a time of hardship and bravery.

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Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Bikepacking around Estonia’s Jurassic Park  

Sensing I needed a work break, I organised my first bikepacking trip of the year in Estonia's Jurassic Park (aka the Aidu quarry). With my fully loaded Trek Marlin mountain bike, I explored rugged landscapes, deep craters, and dramatic canals. The quarry site offers some incredible views, perfect for a refreshing 24-hour screen break. A remote escape that left an unforgettable impression on me!

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Exploring the incredible Haapsalu castle as a digital nomad in Estonia
europe, estonia, castle Chris Shirley MA FRGS europe, estonia, castle Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Exploring the incredible Haapsalu castle as a digital nomad in Estonia

As a digital nomad in Estonia, I've been exploring the country's many castles, and Haapsalu Castle is one of my favorites. This well-preserved medieval fortress is located in the coastal town of Haapsalu and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The castle grounds are beautiful, with a moat and drawbridge, and the museum inside is perfect for families. Visitors can learn about the castle's history, see a variety of artefacts, and climb to the top of the main tower for panoramic views. Guided tours are available in multiple languages, making it a great day trip from Tallinn.

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Exploring the spooky tunnels hidden beneath Tallinn’s old town

Exploring the spooky tunnels hidden beneath Tallinn’s old town

I’ve been walking around Tallinn as a digital nomad for almost a year now, and had no idea there are these spooky, yet intriguing tunnels hidden underneath the old town!

The tunnels are essentially a network of underground tunnels that were built in the 17th century to help defend Tallinn's Old Town against invading armies and run underneath the city's defensive walls and connect several of the city's bastions, which are fortified structures that were used to protect the city's gates and walls.

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Finding the Raketa Shipwreck
estonia, europe Chris Shirley MA FRGS estonia, europe Chris Shirley MA FRGS

Finding the Raketa Shipwreck

As I approached the Raketa shipwreck, I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe.

The massive logistics vessel had been stranded in Estonia's Lahemaa National Park for over 50 years, its rusted exterior standing as a testament to the passage of time.

Despite its age, the shipwreck exuded a certain magnetism, drawing me closer to explore its secrets. As I learned about the ship's fascinating history, I couldn't help but feel grateful for the chance to witness such a unique landmark.

If you're looking for a truly one-of-a-kind experience, make sure to add the Raketa shipwreck to your itinerary when visiting Lahemaa National Park.

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