What it's like to bikepack the Eurovelo 11 route across Estonia
The Eurovelo cycling routes are one of Europe’s best kept secrets. Way-marked by blue signs with occasional directions to the next town, the routes criss-cross European countries.
The entire Eurovelo 11 route is c.6500 kilometres, starts at Nordkapp (the most northerly point in Europe) and finishes at the southern tip of Greece, covering 11 countries on the route. It’s apparently referred to as ‘the beast of the East’ (according to the official website) and completing it in stages is quickly becoming a personal goal.
Estonian leg of the Eurovelo 11 route
Fundraising for Code to Inspire, an NGO that supports educational opportunities in Afghanistan, cycling the Estonian leg of the Eurovelo 11 route becomes my charity challenge for 2022, and potentially a longer-term goal of riding the entire length of the course of my life.
The route is 500km (c.310 miles) which I managed in around 3 and a half days thanks to some long days in the saddle (and ongoing work projects!).
Day 1 (31st August 2022). Distance today: 151 kilometres (93.8 miles).
The day started off windy and a chilly 13 degrees - a huge drop from last week’s 34 degrees!
The enormity of the goal dawned on me a few minutes down the road when I realised this was going to be me for up to a week, just the Eurovelo 11 route, the food / water stops and me. It’s exciting and nerve racking at the same time. But the reason I’m doing it resonates at every step when I get a little bit worried. Some people in this world don’t have the freedom to just disappear off for a few days on a gravel bike - and it’s them I think of.
The hours roll off in quick succession, and I’m mentally working through my check list for things I need to do: drink water; eat food and rotate the pedals. Simples.
But in the first few hours, the ride reminds me it’s not going to be walk in the park - when my front wheel gets stuck in a tram line briefly as I’m leaving Tallinn, and I get chased by an angry dog for a kilometre. I’m cycling a heavily laden bike so I have to mash the pedals at full pelt for well over 5 minutes before he gives up. My watch tells me my heart rate is in zone 4 as a result of it.
I’m aiming to do the same distance again tomorrow and reach the border town of Valga by Saturday lunchtime. The race is on.
Day 2 (1st September 2022). Distance today: 160.1 kilometres (100 miles). Total distance so far: 311.1 kilometres (193.8 miles).
The day started, ended and was characterised with water.
A cold night next to the coast meant a slow start to the day, as muscles and joints were stiff thanks to a poor choice in sleeping bag and setup, but I’m not going to let it stop me.
It takes me over 3 hours to cover the first 40 kilometres, thanks to a nice, warm fuel station that serves coffee and hot dogs. I take the opportunity to use their bathroom and have a wash in their sink - it’s not the first time I’ve done this and so the routine is quite straightforward.
A few hours of cycling and I’ve exhausted all the thinking I wanted to do and so start on podcasts - which help me figure out how to work and do things better.
The day is interrupted when I stop at a derelict stately home in the middle of nowhere. The collection of buildings was once beautiful have sadly fallen into disrepair. The caretaker comes to ask what I’m doing and so I explain that I’m cycling the Eurovelo 11 route to fundraise for better education opportunities in Afghanistan. He commends the effort and then tells me all about the history of the area, including the new owners of the building and an energy crossroads that will bring me good luck if I stand on it (which I obviously do so!).
The crossroads don’t work straight away and I ride through a few hours of rain and on to Jõgeva with the idea that more coffee will keep me going. It’s there that I realise that I could do a 100-mile day if I just go on for another 30 minutes and so aim to camp next to a big, beautiful lake. I get there and am presented with an incredible pink sky and clear place to set up camp.
Onwards!
Day 3 (2nd September 2022). Distance today 108.9km (67.6 miles). Total distance so far: 420km (260.9 miles)
After a freezing night next to the lake, I sleep in until around 9 as the sun warms up the tent, allowing me to actually rest without shivering.
When I do eventually surface, I’m greeted with an epic view that makes packing up to leave a slow process - and one that makes me fight my desire to hang around and go for a swim.
But I do leave and put my foot down to get to the nearest fuel station for coffee. Ironically, I’m having a latte in Lahte, which keeps me entertained for a good while.
The rain comes intermittently and so I have my rain jacket on pretty much throughout the day. I realise the cold yesterday has sapped my power bank, which is keeping my phone going to help me navigate the windy route of the Eurovelo 11 route. It’s not well signposted in some places, so tech is vital to help me keep speed - unless I want pull the map out to get me navigate.
I get to Tartu and set about finding places to restock food, charge my power bank and get a coffee - eventually finding all 3 in the centre of the city. I can’t hang around though, after a late start and difficult finding power and supplies, I’ve still got another 150km before I get to Varga.
I manage another 70km before the light fades and I have to find somewhere to stop and put the tent up, but not before I’ve grabbed a quick quesadilla and more coffee from the service station on the way.
With now just 75km left between me and the border, I’m determined to get it done and be on the midday train back to Tallinn. The race is on!
Day 4 (3rd September). Distance today 80.1km (49.8 miles). Total distance so far: 500km (309.8 miles)
After the third cold night, I wake up at 3am to heat up some soup and noodles to stay warm - and pack everything away to set off at 7am so I can be sure to reach the finish line by lunchtime and get the train back to Tallinn before nightfall.
For the first 20 kilometres, the route is rolling hills on quiet roads which means I rack up the distance quite quick.
But when the road turns to gravel, my speed massively decreases, and I start to worry that I’ll have to wait around in Valga for the evening train. I power through the sandy, rocky route and after 4 kilometres, get back to the tarmac roads again.
The rain has disappeared, but the wind has come back, making the going slow and cold. I take a small detour to a fuel station and recharge with a massive coffee to keep me going.
Eventually, after over 5 hours of cycling - I get to the finish line; the border crossing between Estonia and Latvia. I’ve cycled across my first country and feel exhausted but relieved and happy that it’s done!
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