In September 2018, I travelled to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, as a solo traveller to help make an an NGO more resilient and reduce the amount of risk when travelling in beautiful, yet quite remote parts of the country.

As it’s a new location for me, I do my research to better understand what the city is famous for, and what some of the challenges might be. It’s a tried and tested way to ensure I go to the place and not be burden to other people or myself.

Interestingly, I find out that the city is home to around 1 million people and was founded in 1825 as a fortress called ‘Pishpek’, that later became an important trading centre along the Silk Road.

But in 1862, it was captured by the Russian Empire and renamed "Frunze" after a military leader, however it was changed back to Bishkek after the collapse of the Soviet Union. This important context helps to shape my thinking before I get there.

Interesting, I also find out that over 90% of the country is mountainous with a third standing of it above 3000m – making it a great adventure hub, for if I want some truly off-the-grid challenges in the future!

Exploring the city

I fly into Manas International Airport, that’s located quite a way out of town. Thankfully the NGO has sent someone to collect me so I don’t have to take a taxi. I get to my hotel and look forward to my sightseeing the next day. It’s my 52nd country and one that I’ve been excited to visit for some time since my only experience of central Asia has been Afghanistan so far.

I get a chance to explore the city, which is a fascinating experience, there is so much to see, learn about and photograph. A staff member’s teenage son is kindly showing me around the city. His English is great and he’s upbeat and funny, meaning I can ask him loads of questions to get a thorough understanding of the country.

We walk to Ala-Too Square (aka the central square) to see the statue of legendary figure and a national hero, Manas Baatyr, who is more well known as Manas the great. It’s a really impressive statue with an equally interesting story.

Manas Baatyr is the central character of the epic poem known as "Manas," which is one of the longest epic poems in the world.

The epic of Manas is an oral tradition that has been passed down through generations of Kyrgyz people, and recounts the life and heroic deeds of the titular character, who is depicted as a warrior, leader, and statesman. The epic tells the story of Manas' struggle against foreign invaders and his efforts to unite the Kyrgyz people.

Today, the poem is considered a significant cultural and historical treasure of the Kyrgyz people and has been recognized by UNESCO as a masterpiece of the oral and intangible heritage of humanity that is celebrated in various forms, including music, art, writing, and public monuments.

World Nomad Games

Also in the Ala-Too Square, is the official World Nomad Games countdown clock.

If you’ve not heard of it, the World Nomad Games is an international sporting and cultural event that takes place in Kyrgyzstan, and showcases the traditional sports, arts, and cultural heritage of nomadic peoples from around the world, to promote and preserve the traditions and skills of the transient cultures and to foster cultural exchange and understanding among different nations.

Interestingly, it features a variety of traditional sports and competitions that are significant to nomadic cultures. These include horseback archery, kok-boru (a traditional Central Asian sport similar to polo but played with a goat carcass instead of a ball), eagle hunting, wrestling, traditional horse racing, and many others.

After exploring the central square and surrounding area, we try some of the famous local delicacies, Maksim and Chalap:

Sampling ‘Maksim’ first, I find out that it’s a traditional dairy drink, made by fermenting mare's milk into a tangy and slightly fizzy that you drink cold. It tastes mildly milky and a little vinegary, but I’m glad to have at least sampled it, even if it’s not my thing!

Next up, we try ‘Chalap’, a cereal drink made from fermented grains such as wheat or barley, that tastes like vinegary oats. Out of the two, Chalap is my preferred as grows on you after a few sips. So we wander around the city with one in hand.

For lunch we try some ‘Plov’ (also spelled as "pilaf" or "pilav"), a tasty, filling rice dish that makes me immediately want more as soon as I’ve finished it.

After a few hours spent touring around the streets, sampling the wonderful food and seeing the interesting sights (such as a MiG-21 mounted on a pedestal), our final stop is to see the Monument to Those Who Died in the Events of 2002 and 2010, also known as the ‘Monument to Freedom’.

 The dramatic monument consists of two large stones, one black and one white, positioned on a platform. As I understand, the black stone symbolises hardship, struggle, and the challenges faced by the Kyrgyz people. The white stone represents peace, unity, and the desire for a better future. The group of bronze figures pushing the black stone away.

This sculpture represents the collective efforts and determination of the Kyrgyz people to move forward, leaving behind the difficulties of the past, and symbolises the desire for freedom, progress, and a more prosperous future.

Something I can completely identify it, so we hang around it for a long time so I can photograph it whilst the sun is setting behind it, my inner creative and humanist in complete harmony!

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